Date: Would you be willing to drive to Rockville? There's this dumpling place that my coworkers keep mentioning, but none of my friends are willing to drive all the way there.

Piero: Absolutely.

About 24 hours later I found myself pulling into a non-descript strip mall off a busy highway on the outskirts of Rockville, Maryland. Sandwiched between a nail salon and a liquor store the ignominious location belied the treasures we would soon find ourselves eating.

The small, cramped dining room was full on this early Saturday evening with a mix of people from across the ethnic and generational spectrum. Wailing Chinese babies shared close quarters with patrician couples and singles eating and reading foreign newspapers. After a short wait, we were hustled to a tiny table under an enormous sign that read simply "Voted one of America's Best Chinese Restaurants by CNN travel."

All good signs.

After being seated for approximately 11 seconds, we were given harsh glares by our server when we didn't have our order ready. Another good sign, this was a place where people became regulars. The types who didn't need menus because their favorite dishes were committed to memory. The kind of place where the thought of what you will order is what makes you get in the car. This is how it is with me. I know, at this moment, what I will order the next time I go. On the last visit, I told a new friend that we needed to order immediately or risk getting punished for not being ready. I was given full ordering authority and sat down to order my favorites: mama's dumplings (a blend of pork, shrimp, chive and Nappa cabbage), chicken and chive dumplings, bok choy with garlic, scallion pancakes, and spicy-tasty fish. There is still an eggplant dish that I often see on other people's tables that I've yet to try... I need to go back.

The food arrives in staggered waves. It is rushed out when it is ready, and the dumplings, in particular, come in never-to-be-repeated timing, sometimes first, sometimes last. It doesn't matter. They are always delicious. Sometimes they are better than others, and this is simply the result of who's in the kitchen that day I suspect. I peak into the kitchen reveals a large crew is furiously stuffing and folding the dumplings to order. This is apparent in the delicate nature of the dough and the never-quite-the-same flavor of the fillings.

The spicy-tasty fish is marvelous. Delicate cubes of flaky white fish take up residence in a delightfully crispy shell. They are tossed together with wilted greens, dried hot peppers, and peanuts. The peanuts alone are worth the price of admission. Everyone who has tried it with me has marveled at the delicious simplicity of this dish, and it shouldn't be missed.

I've been to China Bistro eight or nine times at this point, and I have seen the same staff on each visit. I suspect they have been part of this team for a long time. I have been friendly and chatty on each visit, yet, there has not been the slightest indication of recognition - oh well. It doesn't matter one bit. The service is at best efficient, and at worst slightly dismissive - yep. The ambiance, restrooms, and location all leave something to be desired - I'll let it slide. I will happily eat those dumplings and that fish again and ideally that eggplant I keep forgetting to order again and again.

★★★★★
$$ / $$$$$

755 Hungerford Dr, Rockville, MD 20850
www.chinabistrorockville.com
Phone: (301) 294-0808